When Trueplay is used (requires an iOS device) all components are balanced as a unit to the room environment. All three provide a Left/Center/Right channel across the front. The Playbar and Playbase are designed for larger spaces. The Beam was designed for smaller spaces such as a master bedroom. ![]() An IMAX theater will use more speakers and might achieve a more immersive experience, but there is no difference in Hi. In an average living room using PLAYBAR, SUB and surrounds, one can achieve levels that one experiences in an IMAX theater. Prior to SUB I had been using an impressively large, more expensive subwoofer that did not cause any such issues and SUB sounded better. In my own case, I had to subdue the window glass a bit to eliminate some buzzing. One will often discover items inside the walls or nearby cabinets that will become excited. SUB injects quite a bit of low frequency energy into the room. I realize that there is a certain sticker shock associated with the price of SUB, but (in my opinion) it is a bargain because it will out perform subwoofers that are much more expensive. The likely result is that there would be occasional thumps and booms associated with surround channel activity, not an overall uniform bass experience. If you really want to use a third party sub you should consider replacing the Beam with an Amp and getting a pair of front speakers.Įnabling the subwoofer output on CONNECT:AMP or AMP when used to support surround channels would not be a satisfactory solution for the subwoofer connection because in this configuration the subwoofer would respond only to bass that is part of the surround channels. Clearly the Beam will continue to downmix the 5.1 into its own speakers, but the main problems are going to be (a) differential delays, between the Beam and the external speakers, and (b) controlling the volume of each individually. Splitting the (optical) signal in some fashion, separately decoding the rear/sub channels, and feeding it to third party kit is unlikely to work satisfactorily at all. I have 2 rear speakers already fitted but I could replace these with Sonos 1's if I had to.Ĭan anybody suggest the best method (please dont say buy all Sonos) for getting 5.1 using the Beam even if I have to buy some inexspenive 5.1 decoders just to sepearte the rear and sub I already have a very good quality powered sub and do not really want to purchase a Sonos Sub just for this purpose. ![]() Hi I'm in a very similar situation, I have a Sonos Beam connected to my tv and would like to add some surround speakers and a sub. The only setup in which you can use a third party sub with a TV setup is if you're using the Sonos Amp (with the HDMI-ARC input) as the front part of your system, and it is only front right, and front left, with no provision for a center channel, which Sonos makes as a "phantom" speaker. No, if you're using a Beam and either a Sonos Amp or a CONNECT:AMP to power your surrounds, you can't add another device to that zone/room to carry the sub's LFE signal.įor better or worse, Sonos wants you to use a Sonos sub if you're using a Sonos soundbar. It's built in as part of the Sonos software, and there's no way to change that at this point.Ĭould I add my existing Sonos connect to the configuration to provide a dedicated signal to the third party sub-woofer? ![]() ![]() First, to cover the amount of time it takes to convert an analog signal to digital (probably very small) and secondly, to buffer enough of a signal for Sonos to be able to safely play that input in sync across all of the speakers that Sonos has. The timing issue has only to do with the analog line-in on all Sonos devices. The Sonos Amp, on the other hand, has a 5Ghz wifi card that can connect to carry the surround signal, so it doesn't have to be wired to carry the surround portion of the signal. When both the Beam and the CONNECT:AMP are connected to your router with ethernet cables, they'd all be in sync. I read that the older Sonos Connect:AMP cannot be used to power rear speakers to achieve tv surround sound because the timing will be out of sync with the Beam (can only be used to power wired fronts).
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